The Upper North Prong is short, smooth, and totally inaccessible without hiking other trails to get to it. In fact, I almost didn’t give it a standalone article – it’s typically paired with the John Haynes Ridge Trail, and some folks might not even realize that they’re 2 different trails.
It can also be confusing to read that this trail is just 2 miles long and relatively easy, as you might be fooled into thinking it’s a good one for a short family hike.
You would be wrong, unless your idea of a short family hike involves nearly 7 miles and connecting with at least one other trail.
That said, Upper North Prong Trail is a distinct experience. The park marks it as separate on the maps, and for those reasons, we’re going to give it the benefit of the doubt.
Hope it earns it.
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Upper North Prong Trail in Caprock Canyon State Park: 2 miles+
Upper North Prong Trail is one that must be looped in with other trails, as it doesn’t have its own trailhead. The actual Upper North Prong Trail is only 2 miles long, but there is a minimum 1.25 mile hike via the North Prong Spur to reach it – although that’s far from the only way to get there.
Accessing the Upper North Prong Trail
In my most fucking humble opinion, this trail is best experienced via John Haynes Ridge, giving you a true taste of the best that Caprock state park has to offer. That loop is 6.75 miles and only gains about 1,000ft of elevation.
My trail description will begin from Fern Cave because in my original hike, I took John Haynes to Fern Cave and set out on the Upper North Prong Trail from there.
Trail from Fern Cave
Hiking the Upper North Prong from Fern Cave
From Fern cave, the trail is in a wide canyon and there is some vegetation for the first mile – scrubby trees and desert shrubs. The trail initially follows along the north prong (go fucking figure) of the Little River, which is where the most vegetation lies.
In most places it is wide enough for two people to walk abreast and relatively flat. This stretch of the trail is definitely mountain bike friendly if that’s something you’re into.
As I hiked along, I observed frequent, large piles of scat and large hoof prints, especially as the trail moved away from the dry riverbed and the canyon began to open up.
The Bison Incident
I’ve seen enough videos and heard enough horror stories of stupid tourists getting gored at national parks like Yellowstone that I knew to steer well clear of any bison. But until I saw the evidence of their diet (yuck) scattered across the trail, I hadn’t really thought through what I would do if I encountered one on the trail.
I know, amateur hour over here.
I smelled the bison before I saw him (although I wasn’t sure what I was smelling at the time) – a rank, terrible scent akin to something like a skunk who’s rolled in a pile of shit.
And then I heard him – grunting and snorting like a javelina, deep and guttural.
And finally, there he was.
A bison just a little off the trail, munching and grunting and farting without so much as lifting his head at me (thank you, Jesus!).
This park doesn’t mince visual aids when trying to communicate the importance of giving bison space.
I’d like to say I drank in the moment mindfully and respectfully but I was fucking terrified. I quickly skirted just off the trail to be sure I gave him enough space (the park signs did say 50 yards without mincing language or imagery), and picked up the pace.
The Last Dance Hoodoo
Luckily, running into the bison didn’t result in my last dance.
Sorry, (not sorry) I couldn’t resist!
About ⅓ of the way down the Upper North Prong Trail I sighted “the Last Dance” – a hoodoo (geological formation) that resembles a dancing couple on the top of the escarpment to my right (south). My big question is why it’s their “last” dance.
The Last Dance
After the ominously named Last Dance, the trail becomes much less visually titillating. It widens further, sometimes 6 feet across and would make for much better mountain biking than hiking.
Streaks of gypsum run through the rocks in the area which was neat for about a quarter mile. Then I got tired of it.
Said gypsum streaks
Or maybe my blood sugar was low.
Exiting the Upper North Prong Trail
Be sure to keep an eye out for when the Upper North Prong Trail turns into the Lower North Prong trail. At this intersection, if doing my loop, hikers will need to turn right to take the North Prong Spur back to the parking lot.
There is adequate signage for even a distracted hiker like yours truly to find her way so you should be fine as long as you have your head out of your ass.
Too Long: Didn’t Read
While the Upper North Prong Trail wasn’t thrilling, I felt that it offered a good taste of Caprock Canyon State Park’s essence. I don’t know that I’d hike it again but I’d definitely recommend you hike it via John Haynes Ridge at least once, too.
Highlights:
- Convenient for connecting with other trails
- Saw a bison (a bit terrifying, and very stinky)
- The Last Dance Hoodoo
Would recommend.
