Hot Springs Trail is a 5.5 mile round trip hike through some of Big Bend’s most stunning desert landscape. Ending at the historic Hot Springs, hikers can relax in thermal springs that are thought to have healing properties.
This hike was definitely the most dramatic experience I had at Big Bend National Park. In fact, my whole experience at Rio Grande Village was a series of unfortunate events.
I’d planned to take a shower at the convenience store because this is the only place to do so within the park – unless you stay at the Chisos lodge. The first unfortunate event occurred there as the power went out moments before I arrived.
I hadn’t showered in 3 days at that point! And by the time I was turning around at the Hot Springs to hike back, I didn’t just smell bad: I was thoroughly pissed off.
But we’ll get to that. Allow me to take you through this trail (trial?) from beginning to end before I get to the juicy tidbits.
Minimum recommended supplies per person
- 3L water
- Rain jacket
- Sunscreen
- 400-700 calories of food/snacks
- Paper map
Table of Contents
Hiking Hot Springs Trail: 5.5 Miles Round Trip
This trail is 5.5 miles round trip (out and back) with an elevation gain of 1,286ft and took me 2:19 to complete. There is no shade on this trail and it is desert hiking; do not attempt it in summer months unless you want to die (and even then, just…don’t).
All joking aside, people have died on this trail thanks to its heat. Fucking respect it and know your limits.
With the relatively mild elevation gain, this trail is doable for inexperienced hikers and families given enough time, water and in the right time of year (aka not the summer).
I made a point to move quickly because I didn’t start this trail until 3:30pm. For families or rookie hikers, definitely plan on this being a half day hike minimum. There is no water or facilities along the way.
Accessing the Trail
The Hot Springs Trail starts at the Daniels Ranch Picnic Area, which is in the Rio Grande village. Driving in, turn right once you see the convenience store and go past the RV sites to find the parking. It was further than I expected. There is a non flushing toilet at the trailhead and picnic tables (not next to the toilet).
Delightful Desert Hiking
Hot Springs trail is a damn great desert hike with some truly stunning views. It features immediate, rocky elevation gain on limestone cliffs for about the first half mile. Then the trail levels off into a more gradually undulating desert path.
Your steps will take you winding across and around tributary canyons as you continue. It is rocky & sandy throughout the area, but the trail itself is relatively smooth underfoot.
At first, the trail takes you further from the Rio Grande, steering you into desolate desert. You’ll catch tantalizing glimpses of the far off Chisos Mountains and the Sierra Del Carmen. For vegetation, you will find opuntia, mammillaria, echinocactus, echinocereus, ariocarpus, coryphantha, ocotillo and cacti, among other desert florae.
No, I can’t pronounce half of those either, but they’re fun to look at!
At this point, the trail is what I would consider to be “gently rolling” with mild climbs and descents. At no point did I “feel the burn” in my legs here even though I was definitely booking it.
Back Toward the Rio Grande
Approximately 1.5 miles into the hike, you’ll turn back toward the Rio Grande and soon catch sight of this renowned, if not always “grande”, river. As you get closer to the Rio Grande, the vegetation begins to change dramatically. There is more grass and even trees, quite a stark change from the sparse desert vegetation.
If you’re lucky, you’ll see feral horses and cows along the riverbanks on both sides. These renegades have crossed from Mexico and, much to the ranger’s dismay, are happy to make BBNP their home.
I was thoroughly enjoying my hike up to this point, relishing the aloneness (I only saw one other fucker on the trail the whole time). The desert views were feeding my soul. And of course, I was anticipating exploring the historical Hot Springs area.
This was the stuff of adventure.
What are the Hot Springs?
Beginning upstream of the Rio Grande Village, there are a series of thermal springs that emerge adjacent to the river. Of these hot springs, the most famous is the Boquillas Hot Springs (my goal on this hike).
According to NPS, groundwater circulating deep in the earth becomes heated by geothermal forces before it returns to the surface as hot springs at around 105F. The water carries mineral salts that legends say have “healing powers.” Minerals such as calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, lithium, and sodium chloride are all found in the hot springs water.
In 1936 the spring’s flow rate was 250,000 gallons a day but NPS says that recent measurements show a decrease in this flow – sad news!
People may have been bathing in these hot springs for much of human history in the area. Luckily, it’s not too late for us to enjoy them, too. Back in the early 1900s, a man named J. Langford built a bathhouse at the springs to take advantage of the reputed healing powers of these waters. Today, the remnants of this bathhouse on the North bank of the Rio Grande allow you to do just that, too.
Hot Goss at the Hot Springs
Here’s where my story gets juicy.
I was really excited to see and feel the springs. I wasn’t sure if I would fully get in, but I intended to at least dip some fingers and maybe some toes in. That was before I arrived at the springs.
As I walked up, I took stock of the situation.
There were a few people meandering in the general vicinity of the springs, but not getting close to the old bathhouse itself.
Which made perfect sense once I looked at the springs.
Four or five men were fully submerged in the water at the main springs – cool, no big deal.
Except that I’m pretty sure they didn’t have any clothes on.
Trying not to stare, I awkwardly did my best to confirm the state of their dressed-ness with sidelong glances out of the corner of my eye. Ultimately, I decided that my original impression, – that they were naked – was almost certainly correct.
By this time, any other people who had been milling around had wandered out of eyeshot and it was just me.
Alone in the desert.
With 4-5 naked men.
In my imagination, I boldly strode down to the springs and did whatever the fuck I wanted to do. I haughtily stared those naked miscreants down until they wilted in shame and scuttled off to allow me to enjoy this wonder in private.
In reality, I made sure my bear spray and hunting knife were handy and did a quick about face, walking rapidly back whence I’d come.
Too Long: Didn’t Read;
The trail is an out and back, so there’s not much else to report. I hear that the Hot Springs historic area really is a fucking cool place to check out but I can’t comment on that aspect. Maybe next time.
Apart from any naked people, this is a trail I would definitely recommend.
But you should be alert for possible naked people.
- 5.5mile hike, approximate 1,300 feet of elevation
- Fun desert hike, ending with historic hot springs
- Nice views of the Sierra del Carmen & Rio Grande
- No shade – bring lots of water & don’t attempt in summer!
- Watch out for naked people in the springs!
Further Reading
https://www.nps.gov/bibe/learn/historyculture/hotsprings.htm